Southern Sojourn

Exploring sister cities Savannah and Charleston

One of many green "squares" throughout Savannah, the Hostess City of the South

We finally hit up Savannah and Charleston, two cities that have been on my list for a while. I think it took us so long to make our way down there because as far as vacation destinations go, these two cities are kind of in-betweeners: too far away for a weekend road trip, but too close and not "sexy" enough to plan a whole big vacation around. Turns out, the four night excursion was an absolutely perfect family getaway.

First stop: Savannah. Gorgeous greenery, stately architecture, a diverse population, artsy shops, innovative restaurants, and tons of friendly dogs all converge in this welcoming city. We arrived on a Saturday afternoon and found ourselves at Zunzi's, a popular cafe with a lively atmosphere. The large outdoor patio was host to a panoply of people, from a group of 20-something girlfriends enjoying colorful frozen drinks to a couple eating lunch with their adorable baby who toddled around and made goo goo eyes at us. Benjy could not have been more excited about the $5 Red Stripe Tall Boy. For me, the Cape Town Tea with peach iced tea, lemon, fresh mint, vodka, rum, and gin (don't judge please) hit the spot -- refreshing and strong. The food was fresh, abundant and delicious. We ordered the Gabby's Greens salad with chicken and the Conquistador sandwich, but next time we'll add the wings to the order, because they looked scrumptious and the guy next to us confirmed they're fantastic. Extra bonus points for a gently sloping ramp to access the outdoor space and a large bathroom that easily accommodated Charley's wheelchair.

Savannah: Gorgeous greenery, stately architecture, a diverse population, artsy shops, innovative restaurants, and tons of friendly dogs all converge in this lovely city.

Savannah has an open container policy, so by early evening things were getting a bit rowdy. Bachelorettes and their minions rode by on trolleys, whooping and gyrating. It was fun to watch for a bit, but not our scene. So we headed to our home base for the next two nights: The Thompson Savannah, a hotel that's a couple of minutes out of the main action but still a solid choice. Not even two years old, the hotel is spacious, super clean, and has tons of amenities. We made great use of the "house car" -- a driver with a Tesla who is available on a first-come, first-served basis to drop you off or pick you up anywhere within 3 miles of the hotel. Super convenient! The hotel also has an outdoor pool, a spacious gym with modern equipment, and a really pleasant (albeit hotel-ish) restaurant. I always prefer boutique hotels to large chains, but in this case, the Hyatt brand worked well for us. Next time I might try for a more centrally located hotel like The Alida or The Perry Lane (although it's a Marriott).

We dropped our bags in the room and headed up to Bar Julian, the hotel's rooftop bar. The tallest spot in Savannah, this is a cool place to spend the evening. It's open on all sides with sweeping river views, and the crowd is lively. The drinks were typical rooftop bar cocktails: pretty looking, a bit on the sweet side, and in dire need of a supplementary shot to up the oomph factor. But all in all, Bar Julian is worth a stop, whether or not you're staying in the hotel. Warning: they check ID before you enter, so you can't bring kids even if they're just planning to have a Coke.

After all of six hours in Savannah, it was already clear how freaking nice the people are in this city. At Bar Julian, we struck up a conversation with a local named Harry. He was concerned that we hadn't made a dinner reservation in advance, so he called his favorite restaurant and asked them to squeeze us in even though it was approaching 9 pm and no reservations were available on Resy. That's how we ended up at Common Thread, a warm and inviting restaurant in a beautiful old house that was built in 1897 by a prominent Savannah businessman. I had seen the reviews online and could tell the place had promise, but didn't bother looking into it further because I didn't want to deal with the steps at the entrance of the building. But Harry insisted there's an elevator, and he was right (moral of the story: always call before you cross a place off your list).

Common Thread is in a beautiful section of the city that was once known as Millionaire's Row. We ordered a bunch of shared plates, and each selection was completely independent with its own ingredients, flavors and textures. We loved the smoked sunchokes; roasted shredded cabbage with a tamarind sauce; and radiatore with ricotta, spinach and green garlic -- but don't get too hung up on these recs because you can tell this is the kind of place that changes the menu often based on what's fresh and inspiring. Then this happened: dessert arrived at our table -- courtesy of Harry -- with this note: "Hope your visit is special for you all. Have a glorious night." On the nice factor, need I say more?

After all of six hours in Savannah, it was already clear how freaking nice the people are in this city.

The next morning, we started off at Stevedore Bakery, a breakfast and lunch cafe that's connected to the Thompson. The coffee, baked goods, and breakfast sandwich were all delicious, the industrial-chic decor is minimalist but inviting, and the bathrooms are accessible. (Plus I learned a new vocab word; I never even heard the word stevedore before.) After breakfast we contacted the Tesla driver, who dropped us in the center of downtown Savannah. She was incredibly patient and helpful as we figured out how to fit Charley's folded wheelchair (EZ Lite Cruiser Deluxe Slim model) into the back of the car. We had no particular map or agenda, just ambled along the streets and through the various squares -- and didn't get bored for a minute. We hit Forsyth park, the synagogue that houses Congregation Mickve Israel (the third oldest Jewish congregation in the country), and funky shops like Asher and Rye and shopSCAD, which is the retail outlet for the Savannah College of Art and Design.

Starland Yard's accessible entrance Dark Shark taco truck (try the hush pups!) Saying hi to a Great Dane

We made our way to the Starland District, a gritter/edgier neighborhood, and settled in for lunch at the food truck park Starland Yard. A decent live band played southern classic rock while we wandered around checking out the various food and beverage options. Charley ordered a blueberry sour beer from local brewery Two Tides. Typically I would not go for a fruit-flavored beer, but it was actually delicious. Foodwise, we enjoyed adventurous choices like Jamaican roti, tacos with catfish and collared greens, and hushpups. But the standout amongst this collection of food trucks is definitely the neapolitan pizza at Vittoria. The individual-sized pies have leopardized crust with just the right amount of char and fresh seasonal toppings. We could have sat there for hours eating, drinking and people watching, but black clouds threatened a downpour. We texted the hotel's driver, who showed up within minutes.

Foodwise, we enjoyed adventurous choices like Jamaican roti, tacos with catfish and collared greens, and hushpups. But the standout amongst this collection of food trucks is definitely Vittoria neapolitan pizza.

I can't believe I'm about to talk about food again. A few hours did pass between our lunch at the food truck park and our dinner excursion, but they're not worth a whole paragraph because it rained -- so all we did was sleep, ride the Peloton in the hotel gym, and catch up on emails in the comfortable lobby with abundant work and relaxation spaces. There, now I can talk about food again.

It seems like everyone in Savannah knows about The Grey, a retro-chic eatery housed in an old Greyhound Bus station. Chef-owner Mashama Bailey was featured on Chef's Table and won a James Beard award last year for outstanding chef. You should make a reservation far in advance. We didn't, but we miraculously lucked into a table in the bar area, which is unreserved. The atmosphere is warm and nostalgic and hip, with authentic relics of the old bus station elegantly incorporated into a mid-century modern scene. Everything here was expertly prepared; I do not think you can go wrong ordering anything off the menu. Plus, it's a great feeling to eat in an acclaimed restaurant owned by a Black woman knowing that this very same building was segregated not all that long ago. Eating at The Grey, you feel history marching forward (in a positive way).

Overall, our two days in Savannah whizzed by. Everything was so accessible that at some point I realized I wasn't even checking every place in advance to make sure we could get in. Here's a list of places we would have tried if we had more time (this list is for you but I'm also saving it for myself for next time):

• Fox and Fig (vegan cafe)

• Leopold's Ice Cream (I've heard the long lines are worth it!)

• Cotton and Rye (upscale/modern Southern cuisine)

• The Vault Kitchen and Market (modern Asian fusion restaurant in an old bank)

• Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room (authentic Southern fare)

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The trip from Savannah to Charleston. We got in the car to head to Charleston and figured we may as well check out two sites we had heard lots of people mention: Bonaventure Cemetery and Wormsloe Historic Site, which is a former plantation. The cemetery has lots of gravesites with fascinating stories, like the one about a purported (friendly) child ghost named Gracie Watson. We stayed in the car because some of the walkways looked iffy for a wheelchair, but if you've got two good legs I would definitely recommend parking and walking around. We used the Bonaventure Historical Society's app to download a tour, but we only had the patience for about 8 of the 22 stops. It was interesting and informative, but we knew we had a long drive ahead of us and we were getting antsy (and believe it or not, hungry). Before we headed out we stopped at the large Jewish section, which was especially fascinating to see for our family.

Wormsloe, at least for us, was a bust. No one in our group really wanted to see a plantation, especially one where the official tours reportedly do not pay homage to the enslaved people who worked the land. Also you have to prepare in advance to make arrangements for an accessible tour, which we did not do. So we basically paid a $30 entrance fee, drove down the famous 1.5 mile-long road that leads the entrance, then turned around and left. People do talk about this place as a top attraction in Savannah, so please read up on it before you nix it. Maybe we just weren't in the mood.

On the way to Charleston, a pit stop for lunch at Cahill's Market took us about 30 minutes out of the way, but was totally worth it. The family-owned farm and restaurant serves Southern classics -- we ordered corn bread, chicken and waffles, and a spicy fried chicken sandwich. The farm store has great merch, and is a perfect place to pick up a souvenir or gifts. No issues whatsoever with the wheelchair.

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Next stop: Charleston. With lots of great hotels to choose from, it was hard to decide where to stay. We ended up at The Spectator Hotel, which is smack in the middle of downtown in a beautiful old building. Upon our arrival, a butler followed us to the room and promised to attend to our every need. ("Need aspirin? Forgot toothpaste? Don't go to the drugstore. We've got everything you need and will bring it to you!") The kids got a real kick out of that. The bar lounge is serene but not boring, the beds are extremely comfortable, and the service is incredible. The only thing we didn't like was the breakfast, which was completely forgettable.

By the time we got to Charleston it was late afternoon, so we only had time for preliminary exploration within a few blocks of the hotel. We didn't get beyond the main drag (King Street) which was fun and lively but chain-store heavy. We ended up buying a few things at Anthropologie and J. Crew -- not exactly unique finds, but still a fun afternoon. We caught a glorious sunset and ate dinner at Basic Kitchen, an adorable restaurant with funky decor and a delicious menu.

The next day, all we did was walk (or roll, as the case may be) the entire day. Our hotel concierge mapped out a walk for us, but we also ad-libbed as we went and kinda/sorta followed this self-guided walking tour. We walked along the water, saw historic houses on rainbow row, passed the oldest synagogue in America, and saw historic relics like civil war canons and The Old Slave Mart Museum. The museum was closed when we passed by so we didn't get to go inside, but it was powerful to even just see the actual site where thousands of human beings were bought and sold like chattel. There are lots of plaques around the city with interesting historic information, so you can stop and read a bit before moving on to the next point of interest, making for a perfect pace for learning and exploration. With time to explore smaller side streets, we happened upon lots of independently owned shops and cafes.

We walked along the water, saw historic houses on rainbow row, passed the oldest synagogue in America, and saw historic relics like civil war canons and The Old Slave Mart Museum.

For dinner, somehow we got a last-minute reservation at FIG, a very popular spot that typically books at least six weeks out. We have an inside family joke about white tablecloths -- they're actually red flags, warning that the restaurant is fancy and pretentious and totally not our speed. But this time we went with it, and we're so glad we did. First up, the cocktail we ordered knocked my socks off. I can't remember the exact ingredients, but it had mezcal and tequila and it was smoky and sour with a very subtle touch of sweet. Incredibly tasty and incredibly potent. Maybe I was heavily buzzed, but as I was eating the chopped cabbage salad I remember thinking "How can cabbage possibly taste this good?" Even a ton of hype from a friend back home about the ricotta gnocchi she's still dreaming about three years later did not set us up for disappointment. The brown bread and burnt eggplant was sublime, Charley inhaled his soft shell crabs, and the sticky sorghum pudding was unlike any dessert I've had before. Five starts all around, including the service provided by our friendly, knowledgable waiter. Make your reservation now.

White tablecloths notwithstanding, FIG was a highlight of our trip.

On our last day, all we had time for was (you guessed it) one last meal. We got on line at Millers All Day, which Maisy found through TikTok. This popular breakfast and lunch spot is in a large, airy space with retro modern decor (if that makes any sense). The breakfast is big and tasty, especially the fluffy biscuits.

In Charleston, we ran into the same problem we had in Savannah: not enough time to hit up all the spots we wanted to try. So here's my "next time" list, curated based on recommendations from friends with good taste, locals we met on the street, and cool-looking places we passed while strolling around:

• Lewis BBQ -- I can't believe we didn't get to this place. Please go and tell me how it is!

• Butcher and Bee -- we tried this place in Nashville and loved it

• Obstinate Daughter -- this restaurant is on Sullivan's Island, about a 20 min drive from downtown Charleston. Definitely on our "must visit" list for next time.

• Sorelle -- We had pastries and coffee here and then went back for lunch. Breakfast was exorbitantly priced ($8 for tea?!?) but lunch was not too expensive, and the sandwiches and salads were scrumptious. Dinner looks sooooo good.

Alternate hotel options:

• The Pinch -- When researching accommodations, I thought this hotel looked awesome (5 stars on Google reviews!), but it wasn't for us because they didn't have a room available with two queen beds.

• The Dewberry -- We opted to keep our lodging expenses low so we could splurge on meals, which meant this place was out of range for us. But check it out, as several people recommended it and the location is terrific.

The Roundup. We spent a lot of time discussing which city we liked better, and it ended up in a tie. Benjy and I chose Savannah for the diversity, artsy vibe, and insanely gorgeous trees. Maisy and Charley preferred the more genteel aura of Charleston, with the stately mansions along the river and historic treasures like the oldest theater in America. One thing we all agree on: we could definitely spend more time in both places.

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Logistics

Air Travel -- We used Delta Skymiles to fly from Laguardia to Savannah and from Charleston back to Laguardia. The key to booking rewards flights is flexibility -- you get the best deals when your dates are not set in stone. I tried various dates and various iterations of the itinerary, and the amounts varied widely. When searching for flights, check the "my dates are flexible" box and you'll see a calendar with all the prices. In the end, we used a total of 16,000 miles per person for both legs of the trip.

Tips for travelers with disabilities:

• Flying tip -- when you're traveling on Delta with someone who has a disability, book the lowest fare but then call Delta's Accessible Travel Services line (404-209-3434) and ask to be moved to Comfort Plus. Delta is by far the most accommodating airline I have dealt with, and will usually move the disabled person and one companion to Delta Comfort at no extra charge.
  

• Parking tip -- Both Laguardia and JFK allow disabled people to park in short term parking at the long term economy rates. At Laguardia, we parked in the Terminal C parking garage, which is just a short walk to the terminal. It would have cost $350 for five days, but instead we paid $175. There's no automated way to get this discount, but dealing with the extra step is worth it. When you leave, ring the "help" bell and show the attendant your handicap placard to get the discounted rate.

Car Rental -- We rented a car at Savanah airport and dropped it off two days later in downtown Charleston, which turned out to be a perfect plan. We didn't need the car in Charleston at all, and it was easy to get an Uber to the airport at the end of our trip.